Workplace design has undergone a radical transformation in the last several decades, with approximately seventy percent of today’s modern offices
now converted to open plans. However, despite growing concerns over
decreases in worker productivity and employee satisfaction, the open
office revolution shows no sign of slowing down. The open office model
has proliferated without regard for natural differences in workplace
culture, leading to disastrous results when employees are forced into an
office that works against their own interests. If we are to make offices
more effective, we must acknowledge that ultimately, design comes out
of adapting individual needs for a specific purpose and at best, can
create inviting spaces that reflect a company’s own ethos.
The concept of the open plan
had noble beginnings in architecture and promised natural light,
flexible space, and freedom from oppressive walls and rooms. Many
companies have adopted open office plans in order to promote the values
this layout supposedly represents such as transparency, collaboration,
innovation, and even egalitarian visions where the CEO shares a desk
alongside his employees. But despite all of their supposed benefits, a
number of studies have revealed the downsides to open plan
offices. In one such study, organizational psychologist Matthew Davis
found that “though open offices often fostered a symbolic sense of
organizational mission, making employees feel like part of a more
laid-back, innovative enterprise, they were damaging to the workers’
attention spans, productivity, creative thinking, and satisfaction.” Another study found even more extreme repercussions of the typology, revealing that
as the number of employees working in a single room increased, employee
attendance correspondingly decreased with those working in fully open
offices out sixty-two percent more than those in single offices.
You can save energy by using glass walls, windows and skylights to bring sunlight into dark areas of your space...
In 1915 the 38-story Equitable Building
in New York City was the largest office building in the world.
Containing 1.2 million square feet of office space, it consumed nearly
every available square foot of its diminutive lot and cast an equally
large shadow on its neighborhood in lower Manhattan. Its construction
inspired the enactment of the city’s 1916 Zoning Resolution, which was
designed to preserve access to light and air at the street level. The
resolution prescribed specific limitations for a building’s envelope —
its outer walls — and would go on to shape the stepped forms that you
see today on many of the iconic towers in the city.
This
underscores the importance that access to daylight had in shaping even
the largest of cities, the individual buildings that make up those
cities and, more broadly, sensible building design. With an increasing
focus on sustainable design practices, the smart use of natural daylight
in our homes is no longer a luxury — it has become a necessity. At the
heart of any good daylighting strategy is a concept of “borrowed” light:
the capture of light falling on the exterior of a home and transporting
it to the spaces where it’s needed.
The sun delivers an incredible
amount of light energy to us each day. To get an idea of just how much,
it helps to understand the standard by which we use to measure light
intensity: the foot-candle. The light from a full moon is roughly 1
foot-candle, while the sun’s illuminance on a cloudless day is roughly
10,000 foot-candles. Of course, clouds and the filtering effects of
glass can reduce the actual amount of light that reaches the interiors
of our homes by 50 to 90 percent. But 1,000 to 5,000 foot-candles is
still an amazing amount of light, given that we need only around 35
foot-candles to comfortably read by.
Harnessing this light energy
isn’t as simple as placing a window on an exterior wall. Interior rooms
without access to an exterior wall or spaces oriented in a way that
restricts access to adequate daylight are common problems, each with a
unique solution. Here’s a look at some solutions.
Walls.
Interior walls built to collect and disperse light rather than restrict
it are one solution. The wall shown here gathers indirect light from an
adjacent light-filled bathroom and capitalizes on the reflective nature
of the bath’s wall surfaces to diffuse it into the bedroom. Clear glass
will transmit the greatest amount of light into adjacent spaces. And
because the glass here is positioned above eye level, the bath remains
private and sound-isolated.
The white walls of the same bathroom act as the indirect light source for the nearby bedroom. Bright, neutral colors work well for an indirect borrowed-lighting strategy.
Good solar exposure is borrowed by the bedroom simply via the glazed upper wall.
Because translucent materials
reflect, absorb and scatter light, they make great walls for borrowing
light. The degree of translucency will affect just how much light is
scattered. The effect is similar to obscuring direct sight but
preserving the passage of daylight. Diffused light is comfortable and
limits eyestrain.
Translucency can be achieved in a
variety of ways. Glass can be sandblasted or acid etched. It can also
be textured or laminated. With laminated glass, a plastic interlayer
lends a translucent effect similar to that created by sandblasting but
without the marking characteristics. There are applied films to consider
too.
Full-height glass walls offer
auditory but not visual privacy. When there’s limited access to exterior
window space, they’re an obvious choice.
The perceived dimensions of our
rooms are naturally increased when we use the borrowed-light concept
too. This means it works particularly well for spaces with floor-area
constraints.
In this project the concept of
borrowed light has been applied to the overall ordering system in place.
There’s a logic to the order of solid and void, and it offers plenty of
light to the bedroom space. The pattern on the glazed wall has been
achieved with a custom film; the design was created from a sketch by the
architect.
The vaulted ceiling and clerestory take advantage of reflected light from the entire volume of space.
Stairs. Another
option and an efficient vehicle for borrowing light in a home is the
stairway. It’s a natural conduit for illuminating an often light-starved
lower level. If the stair can be positioned to capture and reflect
light from above by either fully glazing it or using a skylight, it’s
even more effective.
The combination of glass guard
and white walls has made this stairway a light source for the
surrounding rooms. A solid wall used here would have changed this space
dramatically.
Interior windows. Whether they’re clear or frosted, there
are plenty of functional incentives to borrow light using interior
windows. The ones here bring in light from the adjacent living area
while preserving the nursery’s acoustical privacy.
Interior windows aren’t subject
to the same weathering and insulation restrictions as exterior windows,
so they’re less expensive to buy and install. Making them operable,
especially in a stairwell where natural convective flow is greatest, can
help to passively ventilate a space too.
Functional reasons aside,
interior windows can offer unexpected delight. Why connect a bar and a
powder room? I don’t have a good reason, but I don’t need one. I love
the idea that the powder room will look different based on what’s on the
top shelf and the time of day. In the bar too, the differences that the
powder room renders to its backsplash can be appreciated. It’s these
connections that make architecture interesting. Linking spaces doesn’t
always have to make sense, functionally or otherwise.
Skylights. Because
the sky dome above is a giant light source, it’s hard to find a more
efficient means for borrowing light here than the skylight. On tight
urban lots, a skylight can be used in conjunction with an interior
atrium or light well and be surrounded by reflective walls to increase
its efficiency.
This project utilizes a light
well of sorts, allowing the lower level to borrow light from the upper
skylights. The second floor hovers in the space instead of being
extended to the full width of the gable, and the overall effect is
lighter and brighter. The more we open up our interior spaces, the
easier it becomes to bounce daylight around from areas with good solar
exposure to areas with poor exposure. Painting the surfaces with a
higher-sheen paint further helps distribute the light.
This luminous shower is an example of how a light well and skylight can transform a tight space into a pleasant one.
Additions to existing structures
often compromise the amount of daylight the original building receives.
Not here, though. The skylight ensures that the existing home borrows
daylight at its perimeter.
Transoms. Similar in
concept to the ideas seen in the first images in this story, a glass
transom extends the dimension of a space and introduces light to a room
without compromising its privacy.
Light tubes. Simple-technology solar tubes channel light to where it’s needed using
highly reflective, flexible tubes. They’re especially effective in
private spaces or spaces where a lot of glass isn’t desirable.
Although short tubes are used in
this project, the concept is similar. Six large tubes light this
otherwise dark space, a bold and considered element. The choice of
multiple solar tubes rather than a single one not only feels more
intentional, but as you can see, it’s also exceptionally functional. A
grouping of three is usually a good starting point, but the more, the
better.
Let's help you take the guesswork out of room planning and design.
The kitchen. A
well-designed kitchen makes meal preparation and dining more
pleasurable. Randel offers measurements and advice for storage areas,
prep and cleanup spots, and cooking and baking centers.
Tip: To
get your kitchen cooking, store pots, pans and baking sheets around the
burners and oven. You can put your toaster and coffeemaker here as well
to keep prep areas free. Seasonings, breadboards and potholders should go in nearby drawers and cupboards. Allow
21 to 36 inches (53 to 92 centimeters) of counter space on either side
of your cooktop, and locate a wall oven next to an open countertop so
you have a place where you can set down hot food.
The bathroom. Whether
you install a single, double, pedestal, floating or braced sink will
depend as much on your available space as on your needs and desires. And
that’s just one element of the bathroom. This story examines your options for sinks, toilets, tubs, showers and towel bars.
Tip: Want
to extend your countertop over the toilet tank, as seen here? Counter
heights vary from 32 to 36 inches (81 to 91 centimeters), so you’ll need
to consider whether your toilet will fit comfortably underneath. You
also must be able to lift the lid without obstruction.
The living room. Is your
living room large enough for a sectional, or would you be better off
with a smaller sofa or love seat and chairs? Randel provides
measurements for these seating options, as well as for other furnishings
and accessories, to help you decide.
Tip: Just as
important as the furniture is a living room’s flow. Circulation paths
that enable people to move to seating areas and exits need 30 to 36
inches (77 to 91 centimeters) of clear width. Coffee tables can be as
close as 12 inches (30 centimeters) from the edge of the seating. Other
furnishings might need at least 24 inches (61 centimeters) between
pieces.
Front porch. Many people
fantasize about having a front porch where they can linger and relax,
visit with neighbors and greet guests. But it’s not just a home’s
architectural style that sets the tone of the space. The dimensions of a
porch — along with those of its columns, steps, doors, railings and
more — play a key role in making it comfortable and inviting. This story
gives all the details.
Tip: Though 6 feet (1.8 meters) is a desirable depth for porches, 8 feet (2.4 meters) is even better.
Bedroom. The design of a
bedroom starts with the bed. Randel lists the standard sizes, along
with the dimensions of benches, nightstands, dressers, chests, chairs
and more.
Tip: If you want a sitting
area in your bedroom, like the one seen here, you need space for tables,
chairs and love seats, as well as the circulation area to make it work.
Allow an area of at least 8 by 8 feet — 10 by 10 feet is better — in
addition to room for the bed, dressers and chests.
Laundry room. This guide
describes the space needed for cabinets, washers and dryers, drying
racks and counters. It also touches on how to integrate gift wrapping
and pet stations into the room.
Tip: A laundry room can also double as a mudroom with a bench, hooks and cubbies, as seen here. If
you go this route, make the bench height about 14 inches (36
centimeters) above the floor. Set hooks 54 to 60 inches (137 to 152
centimeters) above the floor and allow enough room to hang coats.
Dining room. Traditional,
contemporary, urban open plan, suburban open plan: Every style of dining
room has different space requirements. This story looks at what’s
needed for each of these styles, as well as the space needed for each
dining table shape.
Tip: Round tables encourage lively
conversation and family-style meals. A round formal dining table needs
to be at least 60 inches (152 centimeters) in diameter and can easily be
72 inches (183 centimeters).
Powder room. These popular
rooms pack a lot into a small space. Randel outlines typical dimensions
for powder room doors, toilets, sinks, outlets, windows and
accessories.
Tip: The wall behind the toilet, and
sometimes the sink, needs to be thicker than a standard wall framed with
2-by-4s. A 2-by-6 construction allows for plumbing 3 inches (8
centimeters) in diameter to pass through the wall space, which is
necessary for sewage.
Home office. Get
your office layout right with this guide to the space needed for various
desk setups, filing cabinets, seating and electronics equipment.
Tip: Though printers vary in size, plan
on a footprint of at least 18 by 24 inches (46 by 61 centimeters). Be
sure to allow room for opening printer doors to change ink cartridges
and add paper.
Stairways. Careful
attention to staircase design is what makes stairs easy to climb and
descend. Building codes set standards; configurations also are guided
by average human proportions. Read Randel’s guide on stairway
measurements to learn the ideal dimensions for staircase width, risers,
treads, head clearance, railings, landings, balustrades and more.
Tip:
A rule of thumb for planning stairs is that two risers plus one tread
should equal 25 inches. For example, you might have stairs with 7-inch
risers and 11-inch treads (7 + 7 + 11 = 25).
Recreation room. Rooms
with pool tables need a lot of elbow room — at least 5 feet — around the
table. Table tennis also needs a roomy space. Foosball and game tables
for cards and for chess will fit into a more compact space. Learn the
typical game table sizes and read Randel’s advice on seating, clearance,
lighting and table weight in this story.
Tip: A pedestal design is best for game tables for cards, as it offers plenty of knee space and room to move around.
Entrances. Entryways are
high-traffic areas that help you transition into your private life, and
they are the first and last room guests see. This guide looks at their
size and scale and offers dimensions for common elements, such as doors, sidelights, transoms, archways, ceilings and walls.
Tip: The ideal foyer has a coat closet in it or nearby. The closet should be 24 inches (61 centimeters) deep and at least 36 inches (91 centimeters) wide.
Garages. Randel notes that
garage dimensions have remained roughly the same since the time of the
Ford Model T: about 9 to 10 feet wide and 18 to 20 feet long per car.
The difference is, we store a lot more in our garages now. This story
discusses the dimensions of various vehicle types, one- and two-car
garages, garage doors, cabinets and heating systems.
Tip: Details
around garage doors often stand out because of their scale. They should
complement the architecture and be in line with other elements on the
house.
This popular — and versatile — form straddles the divide between contemporary and traditional styles.
There are few architectural elements in a home that suggest
“traditional” or “contemporary” as strongly as roof shape. Ask a child
to draw a house and you’re likely to get a box capped with the classic
gabled roof. So too the flat roof and its association with contemporary
architecture. The shed, or single-slope, roof lies between. Neither
entirely contemporary nor completely traditional, it brings to mind
images of the woodshed or toolshed — classically informed, but
contemporary in its utility.
For an architect, the selection and
design of a roof form has less to do with signifying modern or
traditional and more to do with determining what that roof can do for
the interior space, how it can actively respond to the local climate and
site conditions, and the specific requirements of the homeowner. The
shed roof happens to be a particularly adaptable solution — and here’s
why.
Structural Simplicity
Shed
roof forms are inherently simple from a structural standpoint. The roof
loads are transferred to the exterior walls, which either act as
load-bearing walls or, as in this example, are supported by simple beams
and columns. Depending on the interior room shape desired, the shed
roof can transfer these loads to the bearing points using trusses, a
combination of beams and purlins, or simple roof rafters spanning from
eave to eave.
Each variation offers more or
less interior detail. A series of regularly spaced rafters (spaced
roughly 24 inches apart on center) across the ceiling here displays the
structural logic and lends a richly textured cap to the room. It’s also
great for a room’s acoustics.
Here the architect has hidden the
structural framing to create a clean, minimalistic aesthetic that helps
to maximize the amount of reflected light.
Choosing whether to
express the structure inside has an impact on the insulation too. In
this example the depth of the framing members can be filled with
insulation, and it’s concealed by the ceiling finish. Exposed framing
requires the insulation to be placed above the plane of the interior
ceiling, resulting in a thicker roof build-up.
Site Responsive
When
architects talk about a building being site responsive, we mean that
its shape and layout are informed by the particulars of a given place.
Depending on the site, that can mean many different things. A sloping
topography, distant views, a significant boulder or tree, the climate
and solar exposure are all things to which we can respond, and the shed
roof offers unique opportunities for each.
Topography. Mirroring
the surrounding topography with the roof form, as this project does,
reduces the scale and visual impact of a home on the site. It fits an
overall idea about fitting a home to a place.
Using the roof form to oppose the
slope distinguishes the building form and opens up different spatial
opportunities. Here it’s used to insert two full floor levels on the
downhill side.
Passive solar. The shed
shape is an efficient means of addressing a given latitude’s solar
concerns. In northern climates, positioning the low eave of the shed
toward the north minimizes the building’s surface area and heat loss on a
cold exposure. The tall wall — the shed’s peak — would face south to
collect the sun and passively heat the space.
In hot climates the shed can be
oriented to minimize heat gain from southern and western exposures while
still permitting plenty of indirect daylight.
With large amounts of
south-facing glass, special care must be taken to prevent overheating.
This is true for all climates, as these windows can introduce great
quantities of heat into a home year-round.
Adding louvered slats
to the exterior, as in this project, can thoughtfully modulate the heat
gain. The slats here are designed for a specific latitude to cut off the
high angle of the summer sun and admit the low angle of the winter sun.
Using an interior light shelf
with a shed roof is an excellent means of controlling both daylight and
heat gain. The shelf helps to diminish the scale of the tall exterior
wall and provides a comfortable frame of reference near eye level
inside.
Overhangs are another passive
design element that can help keep the heat from reaching the interior.
They can be sized to shield direct heat gain during the hottest parts of
the day while allowing light in and views out. This large overhang with
expressed framing is a thoroughly modern, honest and functional
aesthetic.
Daylighting (clerestories). With its raised peak, the clerestory window band is one of the most common types of glazing used with shed roofs. They make passive solar heating and daylighting strategies possible.
With floor-to-ceiling glass, the
roof appears to hover and the entire room seems to be a part of the
outdoors. The more daylight we can capture, the less we have to rely on
artificial lighting sources.
Weather protection. While
we can design any roof to adequately keep out the weather, the shed has a
few benefits that other shapes don’t. The wedge shape has a clear front
and back side that can be used to buffer prevailing wind patterns, and
to direct water and snow away from walkways, entry points and gathering
places. In this way the roof form delivers on its name, shedding the
undesirable elements from the places we use most often.
The
depth of the roof overhang affects just how much weather the nearby
interior spaces are subject to as well. Deep overhangs can help mitigate
the risk of water infiltration, especially at the more vulnerable large
glazed areas we see in many of these examples.
Rainwater harvesting. While
the roof protects, it can also provide. It can efficiently gather
rainwater and direct it to a single point of collection to be used for
irrigation, or can simply channel it away from the building’s
foundation.
Directional (views). The
form of the roof as viewed from inside naturally directs our eyes up and
outward. Here the roof is used as a dynamic directional element,
focusing us toward a spectacular view. Contrast this with gabled and
flat roofs, which are inherently more static and inward looking.
This directional effect can be
leveraged to refocus interior spaces away from less desirable views (or
neighbors) and toward more optimal ones.
Roof Slope
The
slope of the shed roof has important design impacts. For any given
horizontal room dimension, there’s a delicate balance between the
shorter structural members required for a lower slope and the longer
structure required for a steeper slope. Longer spans
require deeper framing members, heavier sections or both. When the roof
plane becomes thick, it can feel too heavy and hat-like. This project
maintains a lean section befitting the proportions of the thin
architectural elements used elsewhere.
The roof slope affects the headroom at the high and low eaves inside, as well as how grand the space will feel.
It’s
good practice to consider the slope alongside the building’s latitude
to achieve the optimal solar exposure, as discussed earlier. Steeper
pitches are better in higher latitudes; lower pitches in lower
altitudes.
Steep sheds require careful
planning inside to maintain headroom clearances at the eaves. In snow
country very steep pitches will shed snow even if they’re shingled.
Remember to take this into account and use the shape to do the shoveling
for you.
With this shed, attic space has been traded for living space, opening up some opportunities, like the loft seen here.
Materials
The
roof slope has a direct effect on the materials a shed roof can be
covered with. Any slope less than 2 inches in 12 inches is considered
flat and must be waterproofed as such. Slopes between 2:12 and 4:12 are
generally considered low slope, while those between 4:12 and 12:12 are
considered conventionally sloped. Each roof material has
its own limitation with respect to roof slope, beyond which it’s either
not advisable to use, or special procedures must be followed to install
that material. Having said this, with the right budget, (almost)
anything is possible.
Modern and Traditional
The
formal ambiguity of the shed roof can be a real benefit to those who
prefer the look of a more modern aesthetic but aren’t willing to fully
embrace the idea of the flat roof. The shed form has both a traditional
identity and a contemporary feel, which is why it’s such a widely
embraced and versatile design element.